Climbing cam 5") - most cams with cable eye or rigid stem . This means that the Metolius cams will likely be more durable. NOTE: All Angel Cams are proof tested in the factory. They call it the Range Finder system. “I have cams Feb 7, 2010 · This is the lightest cam we tested and maybe the lightest camming device currently made. This allows you to slide the unit inside a crack. 32" Ultralight Power Cams are for mid range crack sizes or for splitter cracks in desert sandstone, granite or columnar basalt. Offset cams are particularly helpful when climbing alpine but can be used almost anywhere. The Master Cam is a flexible, single-stem unit with an optimized cam angle for increased holding power. Apr 4, 2025 · The Metolius Ultralight Master Cams are tough enough to stand up to the abuse of aid climbing, but they lack thumb loops and our testers unanimously agree that cams with thumb loops like the Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights, Z4s, and the Wild Country Friends are better for aid climbing. Without a doubt, cams have revolutionized climbing. Apr 10, 2024 · Nicest cams to use out there and feel very solid even in wierd uneven placements. We’re here to help you choose the best climbing cams so you can jam your way up that next crack The invention of the spring loaded camming device (commonly called simply "cams") in the 1970's revolutionized the climbing world. Jan 30, 2018 · Totem Cams are our favorite cams for aid climbing because of their ability to engage only two lobes at a time, allowing for an endless array of strange, body-weight-only placements, multiple clip-in points, and super narrow heads, even in the larger hand sizes. Unfortunately the durability of smaller pieces (black and blue) seems rather poor. Other full-sized climbing cam sets include Black Diamond C4 Camalots, Black Diamond Ultralight Cams, Totem Cams, and Metolius Ultralight Master Cams. two screws that are 1in and two which are 3/4 inch. Make sure that all the comes are certified and have a listed strength rating in kilonewtons. Before sea-cliff climbing, make sure your cams are well lubricated. Find a great selection of Camming Devices for sale at GO Outdoors both instore & online. Jul 15, 2021 · With all the climbing cams on the market its difficult to know which ones to buy. I’ve used the cams often and they’ve all seen a handfull of Oct 1, 2020 · So you’ve taken up climbing, but decided that sport climbing is too soft and you’re looking for a bit more grit, pain, and fear. In an interview for Climbing No. Outdoorplay has climbing pro covered. The Alien Revolution excel on granite, whether you're aid or free climbing. This Cam Size Comparison Chart helps you compare models against one another in terms of sizing and range of use. Recent innovations such as reverse cam strength (that means the device will still hold a fall even when the cams are fully open - provided that is that they actually catch on the rock in some way!) are useful, and dyneema slings, forged cams and other advances have made "Cams" a lot lighter than the earlier models, whilst reductions in scale Sep 29, 2023 · Rock climbing cams, or Spring-Loaded Camming Devices, consist of four spring-loaded cam lobes which pivot on an axle. They find their way into more placements than almost any other small cam. Ultralight TCUs have an optimized cam angle for greater holding power and wider cam faces for more grip. Apr 16, 2010 · I don't consider them mandatory for any Yosemite or sandstone routes, but climbers in more pocketed areas often swear by them. - We can not resling Metolius Master cams without the thumbloop. The stems on the C4 are also rigid enough that in a pinch, you can just shove them in a parallel crack without even pulling the triggers. That said, usually a climbing cam with a flexible stem and narrow head will work in a Tricam placement. 5″ sling Jan 27, 2020 · this is a for fun version of a rock climbing cam which can relatively easily be printed, the only hardware you will need are some cap head 6/32" screws. On the downside this means they are very inflexible along the stem and so are subject to walking - a big drawback for a micro cam. 34" to 1. They do not sling cams janky looking cams (the official rule is 10+ years old but that’s more of a guideline). Placing Cams. HB Flexi-fix, Omega Link Cams, Metolius Master Cams; Ultralite Master Cam - $10. This is how AC guarantees proper function and safety of such a complex cam. A cam is a device that is designed to be placed in a crack in the rock where it then expands to fill the crack and catch the climber in the event of a fall by exerting a force outward on the walls of the crack. On the upside they hold well, feel extremely solid, are easy to place and are very durable. CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded cams. Part of what makes the Aliens stick so well in little placements is the soft metal, so there is a pro and a con there. . 6 sizes: #00 - 4; Sold individually or as sets (#1 - 4 Free Set) or (#00 - 4) Nov 11, 2021 · In this case, return the cam to the manufacturer for inspection and repair. Display your love for traditional climbing with this self-assembly rock climbing keychain cam from NiceClimbs. Get free delivery on orders over £80. Falls were taken. Worldwide shipping. Rock climbing friends / cams, cam sets & rocks & stoppers & more Wide range of products FREE shipping options! Wild Country® USA. K. If you carry a double set of cams, the weight savings is the same as a twelve ounce canned beverage of your choice. To place a cam, unclip the appropriate size cam from your harness or gear sling and pull the trigger to retract the cam lobes. They have a flexible cable stem and recessed cam spring design, and also have a narrow head design, which is optimal for shallow placements. Apr 24, 2019 · Yates reslings nearly all cams including Wild Country, DMM, Aliens, Metolius, Totem, and Black Diamond. The Dragonflies are awesome for free climbing. Insert the cam into the crack and release the trigger to allow the lobes to expand and contact the rock. A. IF MAILING IN CAMS FOR REPAIR - PLEASE SEND USPS TO: Runout Customs PO Box 751 Moab, UT 84532 MAIL IN INSTRUCTIONS: After submitting the Cam Repair form, mail in your cams in via USPS to the above address. Metolius Climbing color codes its cams to help you gauge the quality of a placement. It almost singlehandedly ushered in the modern free-climbing era, making it much safer to try the parallel-sided splitter cracks that had heretofore been all but unprotectable using nuts and Hexes. The high-strength aluminum alloy used in cam lobes is very susceptible to salt water corrosion. Mar 13, 2018 · Climber’s Best Friend | The first camming device ever made for trad climbing newly redesigned for the modern vertical world. 4. Mar 1, 2023 · The climbing cam’s strength is also essential in looking for a climbing cam. Cams were used by a wide array of climbers on dozens of climbs, primarily on sandstone and granite. The build-it-yourself kit comes with detailed instructions that are easy and fun to follow, and you'll have your keys hanging in unexpected places in no time. They stick to the exact same color scheme as Black Diamond cams, which is likely the most familiar cam color scheme in the world, so not only do they mesh seamlessly with those cams, but don't require learning a new scheme. 7 out of 5 stars. 95 I wanted to compare the Metolius Ultralight Master Cams, Black Diamond Camalot C4s, and Wild Country Friend sizes. In the right situation, Link Cams can be advantageous weapons on a free climber's rack. The Ultralight Master Cams are twenty percent lighter than the originals. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. 1 Nov 6, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Aug 12, 2024 · Free Climbing. In this harsh environment, the steel parts will also corrode, even if they are stainless steel. While the original unit had two placements (one passive, one active), the Jun 15, 2020 · The new RigidFlex stem design also aids in these cam's efficacy while free climbing. These highly engineered, sort of affordable, shiny spring-loaded gadgets allow safe passage up cracks narrower than a centimeter up to wide enough to fit your body inside. I own doubles of blacks and blues and within a year of use all 4 cams have started to have frayed load bearing wires. The axle is attached to a stem with a trigger and trigger wires which retract the cam lobes when pulled for placement in a crack or pocket. For large cams, it should be from 10 to 14 kilonewtons, while the smaller cams should have the lower ratings. There may have been some curses thrown in for good measure. The Angel cam now comes in two sizes: Size 1 covers 26 to 100 mm, and Size 2 covers 46 to 145 mm. 10% lighter yet just as durable as before, the updated Black Diamond Camalot C4 cam features a modern design that improves on tried-and-true Camalots with an optimized strength-to-weight ratio. The ability to quickly and safely protect parallel-sided cracks opened up the world of traditional climbing to whole new realms. CAMS-A Technical Review (Article circa 1985) by John Middendorf . Brands like Black Diamond and Wild Country offer high-quality cams for safe and secure climbs. Totem Cam store. Free shipping over $49 on all rock climbing cams, including black diamond camalots. Shop for Cams at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. Jan 30, 2018 · DMM has put a lot of thought into the design of their cam lobes, all the way down to the micro level. The softer metal detracts from the durability of these cams but gives us some added confidence as these cams seem to bite into the rock and hold under weird bodyweight placements. Ever since Jardine invented the first fully functional unit (with the proper camming angle) to the climbing community with his introduction of Friends, climbing achievement standards have advanced considerably through the use of superior technology. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. Add Cams. The gold standard for camming units, Black Diamond Camalots' double-axle design allows retraction of larger cam lobes, giving them a much larger expansion range than traditional single-axle units. The Supercams have asymmetric cam lobes giving them almost twice the range of conventional cams used for crack climbing. Then, in the last 5-10 years there have been a lot of new cams introduced that give the Alien stiff competition: Metolius Master Cam and Black Diamond Camalot Jan 25, 2010 · Aliens use to be hands down my favorite cam for big walls and climbs where you have tight and shallow placements. Apr 11, 2019 · While climbing at Indian Creek, our testers would strategically place cams without thumb loops down low, saving their C4s for higher when they had to contend with the mega pump. If you combine these with the Metolius FS Mini carabiners or CAMP Nano 22, you will have the lightest possible climbing rack. We also have an extensive range of small and micro cams in kits or singles for Wild Country Zero Friends, Black Diamond Z4 Camalots, and FIXE Alien Revolution Cams. The Trango Flexcam feature class leading range and are among the lightest 4-cams available. Well, trad climbing is your answer! Unlike the early days, modern trad climbers have access to gear such as spring-loaded camming devices, commonly known as cams. Feb 25, 2015 · Cams are some of the most interesting, useful and well-engineered pieces of climbing gear made. The Wild Country Zero Friends have been newly redesigned and re-released in 2020, and are one of the best smaller camming devices you can buy today. The world’s best-selling, most trusted cam. CE and UIAA certified - Made in Bend, Oregon. Aid Climbing. Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. A rigid stem is preferable when placing and removing cams, because it transfers the movement of your hand into the camming head, making it easy to wiggle in or out. Then, in the last 5-10 years there have been a lot of new cams introduced that give the Alien stiff competition: Metolius Master Cam and Black Diamond Camalot Sep 8, 2020 · Master Cams are a really solid set of cams - which is both a plus point and their downfall. OPEN LOOP (4. bigwalls. camming devices, also known as climbing friends, or more correctly Spring Loaded Camming Devices) are pieces of rock climbing equipment that fit into parallel-sided or even slightly flared cracks to provide protection. Jan 25, 2010 · Aliens use to be hands down my favorite cam for big walls and climbs where you have tight and shallow placements. May 27, 2020 · The cam is a wonderful invention. but action, range, lever/trigger usage). Compare different brands of trad climbing cams by range, weight, and strength. Most of the testing took place “in the field,” by using cams on trad climbs. Oct 11, 2012 · But come on, surely you can admit that today's cams perform a bit better (not just weight. Shop climbing protection. Now 10% lighter, the redesigned Camalot C4 has eclipsed our classic, cornerstone cams, and features a more modern design with new touch-points like a wider trigger for easier handling, and our innovative trigger keeper for compact racking with sizes #4, #5 and #6. Feb 12, 2024 · Steve Levin, in Climbing No. 121. Sea-cliff climbing presents an added challenge to keeping your cams working smoothly. When you pull the spring-loaded trigger wire, these chunks of metal retract and make the device narrower. In this video, Julie Ellison, Climbing's gea Jun 15, 2020 · Display your love for traditional climbing with this self-assembly rock climbing keychain cam from NiceClimbs. 75° Camming Angle | Proven performance places and cleans quickly and efficiently. Black Diamond. . This chart provides a straightforward, easy to interpret size comparison, to help you compare cam models against one another in terms of sizing and Aug 30, 2013 · Also, the metal in Cams is harder than than that in Aliens. I climb frequently with a partner who has some old cams and I dread having to use them when we swap leads with his rack. Range 0. But beyond simply climbing lots of rocks, we used our lifetimes of climbing experience to carefully note important key factors for each cam and metric, described below. Cams. Price, product page $399. While this doesn’t pose a safety issue, it will make the cam harder to use in the future and thus a good candidate for retirement Sep 5, 2016 · Black Diamond Camelot C4 Cam Sets . When you release the trigger, the cam lobes expand to fit the rock. Climbing cams are essential for your trad climbing rack - check out our full range of cams to create your ideal rack. Cams are classed by climbers as active protection as they have moving parts. The Master Cam stem is flexible but more rigid than other single stem cams like the Alien. Climbing magazine is producing a series of how-to videos to demonstrate a number of basic skills and techniques. 95. The lack of a thumb loop makes these cams less than optimal for aid climbing. 89" Ultralight TCUs are for narrow, tricky, hard to protect thin cracks. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee Climbing cams (A. Dec 19, 2019 · Free Climbing. Ultralight Master Cams are for general all around free climbing with small to medium crack sizes. While the DMM Dragonfly cams are very small, flexible Learn how to place, remove and rack cams for trad climbing in parallel sided cracks. $6 Single loop 4. 170 (2008), the 1970s rock legend Henry Barber said he still didn’t use SLCDs. I rounded all the sizes to whole number of millimeters which gives a good comparison of overlaps and the extra granularity the Metolius cams provide. We don't particularly like using them when climbing near our limits, but on easier routes, especially long multi-pitch, we like to carry one due to its increased versatility, and feel like we can often get by with one Link Cam where we might have needed two normal cams. The “TripleGrip” cam lobes have a raw aluminum finish and a crosshatch pattern of tiny grooves to increase friction and reduce walking in slick rock. Cams are devices with retractable cam lobes that, under the tension of a spring, can be wedged or placed inside cracks of rock; when the camming unit is weighted, the cam lobes apply an outward force against the rock that secures the unit from Offset cams are made for irregular crack widths. Cam Stop. From these details, you can find the best equipment to fit your personal climbing needs and weigh the pros and cons of similar climbing cams. It consists of two, three, or four cams mounted on a common axle or two adjacent axles, so that pulling on the axle forces the cams to spread further apart. Cams typically feature three or four curved pieces of aluminum, called cam lobes. 34 Six cams were tested in the climbing cam category in 2018. Compare Trad Climbing Cams. Dec 19, 2019 · Cams are essential equipment for modern traditional climbing. 51 (1978), wondered whether Friends’ use should lower a climb’s technical grade, and whether it would be poor style to repeat a climb originally protected with chocks while using cams. (Check out our Best Climbing Cams Review for a complete breakdown of the cams we tested). A spring-loaded camming device (also SLCD, cam or friend) is a piece of rock climbing or mountaineering protection equipment. 5 Finding the best climbing cam is a process, but below are a few of the highest rated cams available. So, I made a chart for my own use. Their unique design works in pockets and holes where others simply can't fit. -Please Make sure your cams are clean and all older slings removed. Because of this, new units will have a small amount of deformation in the lobes. Find out the best size, depth, orientation and types of cams for different rock types and situations. Their flexibility makes them an excellent piece for pockets and pin scars. In Depth Guide for the Top 5 Climbing Cams Black Diamond Camalot C4 Cam Range Finder tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size cam for the placement. net. For me, trad leading is much more enjoyable with newer cams. Wild Country Friends Rock Climbing Cams - Lightweight, Active Protection for Trad & Alpine Climbing #1 Top Rated. 4. Original 13. Climbers, both new and experienced, were used to solicit feedback while on single pitch routes and multi-pitch routes. 11/16 Nylon Webbing and 14mm Spectra® Webbing is available (they do not carry 12mm Dyneema). My Rack. Shop trad climbing cams online from Trango. The only way to break a cam stop is to fall and expand the head past the stops, inverting the lobes (aka umbrella’ing the cam). Typically climbers buy offset cams after they already own "regular" equal lobed cams. Totem MT manufactures high performance climbing gear. Offset cams mean that the lobes are different sizes - they are offset from eachother. spring-loaded camming device, simply known as a cam in the rock climbing community. 3. Camalot C4. xicxpqa zcsp kduqmjw laf dwhem hpbwnid ntqkvae fcde nasyp onmzu ctwm uvpc nqok mmzmvyxq cjinp